March 28: March 28: Depart Jaisalmer for Camel Safari/ Desert Camping

It was enjoyable to spend an extended period of time in Jaisalmer....hopping from town to town can wear on one's disposition. We were able to get our laundry done at the hotel and with additional free time, we were able to explore the shops, use the Internet or rest by the pool. We departed the hotel about 3 PM as the temperature was approaching 96+ degrees Fahrenheit......in Rajasthan, the temperatures begin to increase geometrically from late March into April...we are told that the temps will stabilize around 48 - 50 degrees Celsius from April through July.....that's between 126 - 132 degrees Fahrenheit.

Each of us had their own expectations on what we might encounter during our desert camping and camel ride.....individual tents located in the middle of nowhere with a sand floor covered by carpets....scorpions.....a large tent divided by carpet drapes as one saw in the film "Lawrence of Arabia"....or individual tent apartments with a concrete floor and individual restroom facilities. Well you can see from the pictures, it was the latter .....nice comfortable accommodations with individual toilet/shower...well ventilated and cool at night.

Base Camp

Tent 115 - My Tent

There They Stand in a Row

En-Suite Facilities

After dropping off our gear, we mounted our camel and headed into the desert. Again, one's imagination draws images of what to expect......solitude, quite, a beautiful sun-set. In reality, we had 3 different tourist groups spread along the dunes with near-by villagers providing beer, soda and dances as we awaited the setting sun. Oooh...one can dream. It was enjoyable bouncing along on your camel....the interesting part was mounting the camel.......after one settles on the camel's saddle, the rider leans all the way back as the camel rises from its knees to standing position and the reverse process is followed when getting off of the camel. We all were a little bow-legged after the ride.

Caravan Assembly Area

Tom the Camel Driver

Off  We Go

Driver Rest Waiting for Sun-Set

Village Dancers on the Dunes

Camel Framing

After the camel ride...a buffet dinner was served which was followed by a local musician and dancer....what a fitting end to an enjoyable day....

Musical Entertainment

Enjoying Dinner and Entertainment

March 27: Explore Jaisalmer

We meet our local guide, G2, and head-up the hill to explore the walled City Fort. There is much to say about this beautiful ancient city with its narrow streets and vibrant crowds...I will let my pictures convey what I have experienced...unfortunately the noise, sounds, pressing crowds, wandering cows, and smells cannot be conveyed...you will have to visit Jaisalmer to experience these.

Jaisalmer Fort from Afar

 

Approaching the Fort














 Fort's Main Entrance



 

Apartment Highrise



One of the Fort's main attractions is a beautiful Jain temple located on a small hill within the Fort's complex. The Jain Temple contains exquisite art in the form of unique carved figures, columns, walls and screens:

After leaving the Temple, we walk the streets and people watch....we see people working, children playing tea-party, a card game, a man with a five foot mustache a cow scratching his nose on the gear shift of a motorcycle....

After the 4 hour walk we visited a shop that sells patterned quilts/wall hangings made from old colorful wedding dresses, quilts, etc. I was a casual observer as my fellow travelers proceeded to increase the wealth of the local merchants.

Finally lunch at 2 PM...we all enjoyed the break before visiting a silver shop for some additional shopping. After a demonstration of making silver jewelry, we were escorted to an upper hall covered by two large mattresses. Out came the silver jewelry, 100s of pieces dumped onto mattresses as my fellow travelers, like kids in  a sand box, proceeded to rummage though the beautiful ornaments...yes a few did buy.

We return to the hotel at 5 PM, shower and leave for dinner at a roof-top restaurant located within the fort's walls...another long walk up hill. We hiked about a mile into the Fort's center where we enjoyed a magnificent view and probably one of the best meals we have had...vegetarian by the way. The old man pictured below played an Indian instrument and sang some lovely songs.

Back to the hotel...tomorrow is an easy day with free time until we leave for our desert camping and camel ride experience...good night...

March 26: Arrive Jaisalmer

Travel along a remote desert road to the yellow sandstone citadel of Jaisalmer (approx 7 hrs). Looking like a scene from The Thousand and One Nights as it rises from flat desert surrounds, Jaisalmer is a centre for nomadic tribes people who come to trade in the narrow twisting alleys full of markets and ornately carved houses. Discover Jaisalmer's narrow twisted alleys, which are full of markets and ornately carved houses. Visit the Jaisalmer Folklore Museum. Located on the banks of Garsisar Lake in the Mehar Bagh Garden, its wide variety of exhibits offer a great experience for visitors. Experience one of the main highlights of our adventure on a camel safari (approx. 2.5 hours) out to the pristine sand dunes of the Thar Desert and spend a night camping out under the stars in tents. (Brochure)

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The drive is quite long...about 6 hours. Our accommodations are superb as usual...a Heritage property, Mandir Palace. The Palace is truly a Palace and is the home to the current Rajah. It is beautifully maintained....the rooms large, comfortable and the service excellent.

Mandir Palace

Hotel at Nigh

The city of Jaisalmer was founded in the mid-12th century by Jaisal....mer means that it was built on a hill. The surrounding are desert with yellow, golden sandstone used to construct all of the buildings. When you approach the city of 70,000, you are impressed by its stark beauty and the imposing Fort that overlooks the city. The Fort is a living community of over 2,000 people who service the tourist in their hotels, havelis, restaurants and shops. The two main businesses serviced by the community are tourism and the military bases that occupy the desert between Jaisalmer and Pakistan.We view the fort from afar and have dinner at a local restaurant called the Trio.

Trio Restaurant

Roof-Top Dinner

Bedtime is early for tomorrow we explore the City Fort on foot....

March 25: Bikaner

Travel by private bus deeper into the Thar Desert to the fortified town of Bikaner (approx 5 hrs). Once an important staging post on the great caravan routes, Bikaner still contains many bazaars within its impressive walls, as well as a superb fort and palace. Travel out to the 600-year-old Karni Mata temple, full of rats considered to be the reincarnation of followers of the Hindu goddess Durga. Locals believe that it's particularly auspicious if one of these holy rats runs over your bare feet - so if you're squeamish, you might have to stay outside!

Visit Junagarh Fort, which was built by Raja Rai Singhji, the sixth ruler of Bikaner (1571 to 1612 AD). In the evening, travel to a nearby farm and enjoy an evening of traditional Rajasthani food, music and dance. (Brochure)

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We leave the lovely town of Madawa and head further into the desert over a 1 1/2 lane bumpy road over terrain that reminds me of the desolate expanse of Wyoming. We cruise through small towns....pass other vehicles that leave little room for error (the Indian way of driving).......almost wipe-out a goat herd as they suddenly dart into the road...the best thing to do is to close your eyes...meditate or sleep!!

After a few potty stops, we reach our 1st destination, the 600-year-old Karni Mata temple...the rat temple. It turns out that today is a festival day and there are more visitors than usual. Since you must take off your shoes before entering the temple, we all proceed barefooted through a very uncomfortable walking experience...yuuckkk. The rats won't bite since they are well fed with grains and dishes of milk (skim milk, I think). Notice the couple where the man is leading a woman in a red sari...they are newly weds seeking the blessing of their gods.... the pictures convey our experiences...

Temple From Afar

The Crowds Gather

They Are So Big!!

Drinking Milk

Foloow-Me my Dear

Marital Bliss

Cleaning their Tootsies

A Festive Occasion at the "Rat Temple"

We arrive in Bikaner and proceed to our hotel, the Karni Bhawan Palace. Intrepid has done a great job in putting us up in excellent accommodations...clean and well appointed properties...many classified as "Heritage" meaning that they were once the residence of "Princes/Princesses) or Mughals. We unpack and head-out to visit the Junagart Fort. You would think that we would get tired of seeing another fort but each is different and has its own story to tell. What is unique about this fort is that has been maintained and still is the residence toone of India's last living rajahs.

Stairs...Stairs..Stairs

King's Throne Area

Princesses Viewing Screens

Tiled Courtyard

Ceiling Fresco

Wall Fresco

Arms and Shields

Viewing Area

More Beauty

Our guide, Kuldeep, has promised us a special evening. First we go back to the Fort to witness the beginning of a 5 day festival. The woman are dressed to the "9s"...notice the number of red saris. The procession is short for it is the 1st day led by local dignitaries....

Crowd Gathers

Dignitaries March-In

Armed Escorts

Adorned Camel

Honored Guard

Colorful Saris

Colorful Ladies

I Love Red

After the short festival parade, Kuldeep tells us that we are going to a farm for dinner. "Kuldeep...what's the surprise?" keeps asking Leah...she like the kid in the back-seat asking the repetitive question..."are we there yet?". We drive for about a 1/2 hour into the county-side to have dinner at a farm house. After we arrive, we are served drinks and appetizers whilw a small local band and dancer entertain us...we settle down to enjoy the evening and wait for dinner. The surprise...we must dress-up as Indians for dinner and we all retreat to our respective dressing rooms...out we come as handsome "Rajahs" and lovely "Princesses". It's like "dress-out" day in grade school. We dance, enjoy dinner...dance some more before calling it a day.

Is This a Bra Strap



Head Case





How do I Look??



Undercover Cop





Feels a Bit Tight



Elegant!!





Tourists





I Just Bought This One!!

After a long drive...the rat temple...the Junagarh Fort visit...seeing the beginning of a festival and a superb farm dinner masquerade...how better can it get??? Time to retire for the evening